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When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.